So you’ve gotten up the courage to do the drive in Italy. And you’ve chosen the most heart stopping drive in the country to do it. This is not for the faint of heart. There are not many places that evoke fear and awe at the same time. Navigating winding roads at the edge of a cliff, following buses through tiny tunnels and squeezing down narrow streets might make you rethink this drive. Yet, a journey through Italy’s enchanting Amalfi Coast is like no other. Embarking on a road trip along the serpentine coastal roads where every curve reveals a new panorama will provide you with a unique and unforgettable experience.
Where to Start
Most start their adventure in Naples, the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. The drive along the SS163 Amalfitana is a scenic masterpiece, winding through cliffside roads that offer panoramic views of the deep blue sea and the pastel-hued villages built precariously on the hillsides. After about a 1 hour drive, your first true encounter with this magical destination is Sorrento. While technically not a part of the Amalfi Coast, it would seem wrong to start the conversation without mentioning this beautiful town.
Sorrento
Perched atop cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples, Sorrento has a captivating Mediterranean allure. This essential stop on any road-trip to the Amalfi Coast has a distinct smell of lemons and unforgettable pastel-hued buildings that make up the town. Spend at least one night here so you can park the car and explore the city on foot.
The historic center of Sorrento might leave you dazed and confused. The narrow alleyways and seemingly dead end streets often lead to bustling piazza’s like Piazza Tasso. Spend your afternoon popping in and out of neighborhood shops before settling into a sun drenched seat at one of the many cafes lining the street. Take your time to wander and make sure you don’t miss the Cathedral of Saints Philip and James which stands as a testament to the town’s rich religious history. Head over to the Marina Grande to view the colorful fishing boats bobbing in the waves. Stroll along the waterfront promenade lined with seafood restaurants and cafes to find nice spot to enjoy a limoncello.
Take a leisurely stroll down to Marina Piccola at the Port of Sorrento to scope out the ferry that you will be taking over to Capri. More details will be shared later in this post. Here you can get an instagram worthy photo with stunning views of Mount Vesuvius in the backdrop.
Positano
Positano brings you the postcard view of Amalfi that most people dream. The picture-perfect town seems to cascade down the cliffs like a waterfall of pastel buildings into the sea. As you navigate the narrow streets, lined with boutiques and cafes, the scent of lemons fill the air. The lemon-infused atmosphere permeates the town from gelato stands to traditional dishes. Try finding a local lemon orchard and learn more about how limoncello is made from artisans at the local shops. While small, this town is a bit of a beast to walk but navigating by car is a non starter.
If the idea of climbing hundreds of stairs makes your knees go weak, then jump on a local bus to start. That said, riding a bus might mean you will miss out on the many unique shops and restaurants that are hidden in the hills. So find the happy balance to ensure you can fully explore this beautiful town. Don’t miss the opportunity to relax on the Spiaggia Grande beach or climb the steps to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta for an iconic view of the coastline. Pop into one of the fancy hotels for a meal overlooking the coastline and to grab that instagram worthy shot.
Amalfi
The namesake town of Amalfi is steeped in maritime history. The town was a major naval powerhouse in the Mediterranean with a strong influence on trade and culture. Spending the night here might be a bit easier on your budget than some of the other towns. In any case if you are sleeping someplace else, make sure you add this destination to your Amalfi adventure. Make a stop at the impressive cathedral, the Duomo di Sant’Andrea, and the charming Piazza del Duomo before grabbing freshly baked pastries at a local café. Before you head out, indulge in a taste of traditional sfogliatella (a layered pastry whose texture resembles stacked leaves) sometimes called a lobster tail in the US.
Capri
There is only one way to get to the famed Isle of Capri and that is by sea. Start your day early. Because if you are not fortunate enough to have your own yacht, you will need to grab the nearest ferry or hydrofoil to access this jewel in the crown of the Amalfi Coast. Grab an unobstructed view on your ride to ensure you can get the most iconic photo to document your trip. There are two towns on the island: Capri Town and Anacapri. Most ferries from the mainland dock in Capri Town. Spend time wandering the streets of Capri and get in some healthy window shopping before heading by bus to Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri. Once you arrive, go up a few stairs to find the chairlift ride to the summit of Monte Solaro for panoramic views of the entire island and the Bay of Naples.
Most people venture to the Isle of Capri for the amazing boutique shopping. Others go for the sophisticated culinary scene and to try the island’s signature dish ravioli capresi. But if you have the time, add a visit to the Blue Grotto to your Capri adventure. Accessible only by small boat, you will find it a treat for the eyes. The cave’s unique lighting phenomenon is caused by sunlight passing through an underwater cavity creating amazing blue hues. Make sure you plan your visit during calm sea conditions for the best experience.
If you are not spending the night on the island, make sure you don’t miss the last ferry back to the mainland. Check the latest schedule before you leave the mainland to ensure there is no misstep during your journey. The last thing you want is to be forced into an expensive hotel at the last minute because you didn’t plan well.
When to Go
Amalfi is one of those places where you have high season and then ‘nobody visits’ season. During the winter months (November – Easter), the Amalfi Coast pretty much shuts down. Many cafés and restaurants are closed as the wet weather trends set in. Even some hotels in the area shut down for this season and forget seeing icons like the Blue Grotto. Do your homework before you decide to take on this adventure.
My View
The Amalfi Coast is a treat for all of the senses. Driving the never-ending winding roads, the very narrow streets and the crazy cliffs will nearly put you into cardiac arrest. We found the most amazing restaurant in the hills that has a wine cellar built in an underground cave. But the drive there was nothing short of torture and I loved nearly every minute of it. There are so many other towns that I skipped in this post so just know that you will have to see it for yourself.
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