Portugal is only about 35,655 square miles. That just slightly smaller than the state of Indiana, but packs a punch when it comes to what you can experience in this beautiful country. Nature, wine, beaches, city escapes, you can find it all right here. Combine the manageable size with an average temperature of 75 °F in summer and 50 °F in winter and you have your perfect holiday spot. Navigating Portugal’s cities from Porto to Lisbon is on the bucket list of many travelers.
There are so many places to see and a wealth of things to do. Just know it’s not likely that you will do everything on your first trip. This blog will focus on two amazing cities and their surroundings.
Porto
When you first enter the cobblestoned streets of Porto, it’s like taking a step back in time. Sure, modernization has added many of the conveniences that we have come to rely but if you stand still for just a moment and truly look around, you might just think you have been transported to 1800s. The sites, the sounds, the colors are reminders of a time before technological advances complicated living.
Put down your devices for the day. I’ll share with you where to snap that perfect Instagram shot and just where to take a beat and indulge in the beauty that is Porto. Certainly, it’s not all sunshine and roses in the history. Portugal has a wealth of historical highs and lows. Nearly everywhere, I found reminders carved into the streets and the sides of the buildings. Some that have even been memorialized in statues that adorn the parks around the city. Nonetheless, there are plenty of resources to provide insight.
Planning the Perfect Stay
Most people think Porto and book their hotel stay in Porto but they are totally missing out. While Porto is the “famous” city Gaia on the South side of the Rio Douro is actually a hidden gem. The streets are a bit quieter, all of the port wine houses are steps away, and the view across to Porto is A-MA-ZING! If you have more than one day, spend the first day exploring the city and he second day enjoying the port wine (on the Gaia).
Firstly, get your postcard photo of Porto from the Gaia side of the river. Then jump on the funicular for 7 Euro to the top of the Ponte de Luis I bridge. The bridge provides a 360 view of Porto, the River Douro and Gaia. Cross the river and spend the day exploring Porto on foot…yes sure there are plenty of tour buses (Hop on Hop off, Yellow Bus, etc) but traversing the city on foot will give you the best vantage point to enjoy the artistry of the tiled buildings for which Porto is known. Also, if you take the bridge across, you are already uphill and all of the walking you will do this day will be downhill.
Here are the places that everyone will be:
Estacao São Bento – The train station (yes, that’s right). It is a great example of a 20th century railway station and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unless you are into architecture, the outside probably won’t wow you. But take a peek inside and your will see approximately 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting scenes that represent Portuguese history.
Mercado do Bolhao – This isn’t just your ordinary market. Here not only will you find the typical butchers, grocers and florists, you’ll also find wine. Grab a class, finds some cheese then sit to enjoy the spectacle of the market.
Capala Das Almas (Chapel of Souls) – This 18th century chapel is covered with more than 16,000 blue and white tiles. It is widely considered the most beautiful church in Porto.
Livraria Lello – If you can get inside, you will experience what is has been called the most beautiful bookstore in the world. Additionally, it is also known to have inspired some of the famous Hogwarts scenery in the Harry Potter films.
Let’s talk about Vila Nova de Gaia and port wine. There are some 60 or more port houses and a few dozen tasting rooms on this side of the river. Take your pick but do so with a plan they all require an appointment and you can’t just taste and run, you have to do the tour. There is a lot of pride in the history and showcasing the work. It’s pretty interesting. But you can only taste so much port and stay balanced. So choose wisely and don’t get too aggressive with your tasting schedule.
When you’re finished tasting port or just want to take a break for the day…pop into the World of Wine (WoW). In essence, it’s like a small city within the city. A couple of museums, a few restaurants, some small shops and some cool spots to grab a photo. Like this beautiful tiled staircase.
On your walk down, don’t miss the largest bunny I’ve ever seen pulled together in an abstract piece of art adorning the side of a building. This is a piece called “Half Rabbit” by Portuguese Artist Bordalo II. Basically, he uses “junk” to create the most beautiful works of art all across Portugal. See how many pieces of his work you can spot around Portugal.
Walk slowly and as you move closer to the river you will find there is art everywhere…turtles out of tires, Rabelo boats showcasing how the Douro River was used centuries ago… It’s pretty amazing.
Take the train, taxi or Uber over to one of the fisherman villages and get your fill of some of the freshest seafood on the planet. If you are an oyster lover, this is the place to indulge.
Beyond Porto
If your wine senses have peaked, just know that you are a mere 200 miles away from the oldest wine region in the world… The Douro Valley. Wine has been grown here for thousands of years. It is a legally protected wine growing region and a UNESCO world heritage site. It is also incredibly beautiful but driving through this region, takes nerves of steel. To get to many of the vineyards, you have to take some narrow roads (some of which are cobblestone and slippery) but it is sooo worth it. I had one of the best dinners of my trip at Seixo by Vasco Coelho Santos which sits on top of the hill at the Quinta do Seixo (Sandeman). For the best view of the valley, make your way up to one of the MiraDouros (lookout point) to get a breathtaking view of this amazing valley.
You’ll want to take a couple of days to fully explore the valley. There are quaint little villages, creative cuisines and cool lookout points. Some of my favorites were:
I would recommend a driver or a local tour to take you around. We opted for the self drive which was a bit terrifying but gave us the most freedom to explore the valley.
- Pinhao
- Lamego
- Peso da Regua
As you round out your stay in Porto and the Douro Valley, kick back and enjoy an amazing dinner at one of the cool spots in Porto (Escama was my favorite), grab a few glasses of wine (or a full bottle when you see the outrageously low prices) and finish off dinner the Portuguese way with a nice glass of port…after all, that is what you came for, isn’t it?
Lisbon
Oh Lisbon. What an amazing and hilly city. This one takes a bit of stamina or some carefully planned tuktuk rides partnered with a trolley to see it properly. There is no perfect place to start. So having a strategy will make your touring efforts a bit more efficient. We chose to walk the lower neighborhoods and leverage trolleys and tuktuks to get us to the higher ones.
In Lisbon, art is all around you. From the placement of the tiles on the street to the graffiti filled walls and the art installations adorning the buildings, this place is a dreamland for lovers of art. Even the modes of transportation have something special about them. But make no mistake this is a big city and exploration to see everything is almost impossible. There are some neighborhoods that you just shouldn’t miss.
For the best views of the city
To be a part of the crowd
For the cool factor
Some obligatory photos (to show you were in Lisbon)
Once you’ve finished with those photos and you get a bit hungry, check out the TimeOut Market in Baixa. Yes, you can find one of these in many major cities. That said if you love food and crowds, this is a great option to try some local flavors. Busy is an understatement. But if you have a group with choosy palates, this might be the best bet for finding something for everyone…finding a place to sit is an entirely different story.
In Chiado, head over to Landau…trust me it is the best hot chocolate on the planet and they have a pretty amazing chocolate cake. It’s a nice mid afternoon break point. And even if you are not hungry but before you head back down the hill, check out Palacio Chiado. This former palace, built in 1781 that converted to a restaurant in 2016. And if you want to feel smart, you can visit the oldest book store in the world – Bertrand.
Beyond Lisbon
It’s hard to think of a reason to venture outside of Lisbon. Most people stay in the city because there is just soo much to see. But if you have time, there are a couple of places I would recommend that you not miss.
Sintra and Pena Palace
After you’ve spent a day or two exploring the neighborhoods of Lisbon, hop on the train and head out to Sintra. This charming town is punctuated by The Palacio National de Sintra, a 10th century Moorish castle and a wide variety of fascinating historic buildings. You are going to do the Castle of the Moors that was constructed during the 8th and 9th centuries, so prepare yourself. Mind your shoes…take water…give yourself grace (even the most fit will breathe a little bit harder as they ascend to the highest point of the castle).
Pena Palace is super photogenic. The colors combined with the architecture makes it a must see sight. Talk about photo op. This is definitely one you want to get.
Next take a journey over to the gardens of the Quinta da Regaleira and you will find a concealed secret passage and a beautiful well with a staircase that looks to lead to the underbelly of Portugal. Another awesome place to grab that perfect photo.
You can spend a full day here so plan accordingly.
Cascais
If you love to be near the ocean it is hard to beat Cascais. A wealthy beach town with top restaurants and more cool art everywhere. What used to be a summer retreat destination for the Portuguese nobility has turned into a modern tourist destination with lively bars and a buzzing atmosphere.
Spend the day at the beach, explore the Castro Guimaraes Museum and Park or just pop into one of the many bars/restaurants to enjoy a glass of wine. Cascais does not disappoint. My favorite restaurant was the Belvedere located inside the Tivoli hotel. This one is for the grown and sexy…five star service and an incredible dining experience.
Evora Wine Region
This might be a bit of a haul it you go all the way to Evora…but if you have 1 hr (and a car) head out to Bacalhoa. The grounds are stunning and they have African Art on display in an attached museum. For 6 Euro you get the tour and tasting of 3 wines. Play your cards right and you can try 6. There is also a Palace and gardens you can explore for a separate entrance fee. It’s a couple of miles away so plan accordingly if you want the full experience.
In Conclusion
I’ve barely scratched the surface of what you will find in Portugal. Navigating Portugal’s vibrant cities isn’t always easy. So chart your own path and don’t be afraid to explore. Portugal will surprise you in so many ways so get ready for adventure.
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