Ultimate Guide to Getting Around Portugal

So you’re thinking about driving your way through Portugal. Why not! This is a really great way to see all of the sites that are typically overlooked when you are air hopping from one city to the next. Here I will give you my top reasons to do it and provide a few insights on why this may not be the drive you want to do.

The Basics

Let start with the basics. You don’t need to rush to get an international driver’s license to rent a car and drive in Portugal. It is not a requirement. That said, it’s always better if you have somehow scored one as it will make understanding street signs and parking rules so much easier. Take a look at Getting an International Drivers License that provides insight into the process for US citizens.

You drive on the right side of the roads in Portugal. Just like the US. You’ll find posted speed limits and defined parking zones all around. You will also find traffic/speeding cameras that will send you your speeding ticket by mail so watch out.

GPS works but don’t always take the shortest route. You will want more information than that. We took the shortest route on a few occasions and had heart stopping encounters will hillsides, gravel roads and near misses with buildings. If possible, check to see what type of roadway you will be taking and save yourself from a coronary.

The Harder Stuff

If you are renting a car, the default vehicle type will be a manual transmission. So for all of you who did not learn to drive a stick shift, you will need to pay an upcharge for an automatic transmission vehicle.

Smaller cars are best! Trust me. You don’t want to scrape the side off of a Suburban driving to get into one of those small car parks. And even worse, finding a parking space to accommodate a large vehicle is almost impossible. So let go of your monster ride and cozy up in something that works for these ancient cities.

Toll Roads. Nowadays, most rental agencies have automatic toll pass already installed in the vehicle. There will generally be a daily fee for using it but you really don’t have much of a choice. The motorways require tolls and most of them don’t have people there collecting the change. The toll by plate system is a real hassle and who wants to waste valuable holiday hours searching around for places to pay tolls. Accept the fee as a part of having a car.

Why you Might Consider Getting a Driver Instead

The wind. OMG! Nothing is more frightening than being on a very high over pass 7,000 feet above sea level and getting a gust of wind that pushes your compact car into another lane. I saw my life flash in front of me a few times during our drive. Nonetheless, we persevered and survived to see another day.

Streets Designed Before Cars. Cities like Lisbon, Obidos and Porto have been around for a long time. I learned that many of the buildings were erected when horseback and wagons were the primary modes of transport. City planners worked hard to ensure streets were design to maintain the integrity of these beautiful cities. Yes, some roads are now paved and you have modern street signals and crosswalks in place to keep drivers in check however, that doesn’t change the fact that these cities were not designed for cars. Super tight corners. Lanes that are hard to believe were designed of accommodate cars going in opposite directions. It was crazy. The local bus drivers that navigate the city are magicians as far as I’m concerned.

Hills. If you are driving a manual transmission vehicle and you roll into one of these “throw back” cities, be ready to ride the clutch and get real comfortable using the handbrake. It is not for the novice driver. Even more, the roads are often paved with cobblestone. Not the most traction friendly surface.

The Beauty of the Drive

Putting all of the above advice to the side for a moment. The drive through Portugal is nothing short of a postcard experience. The landscape is magical. You will want to stop everywhere to grab that perfect photo and you won’t have enough time. My drive took me from Porto to Lisbon. But not the typical stay on the motorway type of route. We took a more scenic drive through the country to have an experience like no other. Starting in Porto…

Porto to Duoro Valley

Very little beats the breathtaking views you get in the Duoro Valley. Villages like Pinhao and Lamego make you feel like you have stepped right into a land that time forgot. You can watch river cruise ships as they glide gently on the Duoro River while sipping cocktails on the outside deck of the Cozinha da Clara (a really nice restaurant with wine flights on the menu). It’s pretty dreamy.

The hills are dotted with Quintas (vineyards) such as Seixo (Sandeman), Croft and Dow. If your nerves can take the winding roads that lead to them, you can try some fabulous wines. Before you fill your glass with wine, take a drive up to Miradouro de Casal de Loivos to get a postcard worthy view of the valley below. Hang out for a bit because you will want to get your nerves right to make the drive back down.

Duoro Valley to Aveiro

Once you’ve had your fill of wine in Duoro, head southwest to Aveiro. Some call it “The Venice of Portugal”. The canals, the historical buildings and the nightlife are all worthy of the drive to get there. Park your ride and a find a traditional Moliciera boat to explore the city via the canals. This is a great stop to grab a relaxing lunch at many of the restaurants in the historic center.

A few hours in Aveiro will give you a nice break from your drive and provide a totally different view of this magical countryside. Spend the night if you have the time. There is no shortage of things to see.

Aveiro to Coimbra

When you are all fueled up and rested, take the short hop over to Coimbra. This is a college town and you feel that from the moment you exit the motorway into town. Suddenly the average age of the people on the street drops to 25. It’s not hard to miss the University of Coimbra which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Snap a few photos in the university courtyard or head up to the Baroque-style university tower to get a panoramic view of the city.

Depending on the amount of time you have, you might opt to simply do a drive through to see some of the sights like the Coimbra Old Cathedral which dates back to the 12th century or the Monastery of Santa Cruz.

Coimbra to Obidos

If you want to see a well preserved medieval city, add a stop in Obidos to your drive. This is a fortified cities at its finest. Once you exit the motorway, you will see this imposing walled city perched above the countryside. You can imagine a time when the cannons that adorn the walls were used to protect the locals from impending danger.

By now, you are probably a bit exhausted from the days drive so grab a room in the now hotel that was the Castle of Obidos and tick off “spending the night in a castle” from your bucket list. Spending the night here gives you the opportunity to walk the cobbled streets of the city, take in the vibrant colors sprinkled around the town and take some amazing photos in this Instagram worthy setting.

Since you’re done with the drive for the day, pop into a local restaurant for dinner and cap off the night with some Ginja. A cherry liqueur for which the city is famous.

Obidos to Cascais

Obidos is really close to Lisbon. But instead of heading straight to the hectic streets of the city, take a detour and follow the coastline down to Cascais. You will not regret it. Stop along the way to see the surfers paradise of Peniche and Ericiera. The waves are crazy. It’s easy to see why this has become a hot spot for some of the world’s greatest surf events like MEO Pro Portugal.

When you are finished staring at the waves, stop by one of the local restaurants serving freshly caught fish in Ericiera. The chefs prepare the fish very simply…salt and pepper then grilled and finished with fresh squeezed lemons. Delicious!

Make your stop for the evening in Cascais. This once fishing village has experienced a crazy transformation over the years. It’s easy to see how the stunning coastline, vibrant nightlife and beautiful beaches have made this a popular tourist destination worthy of a weekend stay.

I found that driving here to be the easiest of all the towns covered so far. That said, this city is totally walkable…so park the car and head toward the ocean for a memorable stroll along the coast. There is no shortage of places to stay among the streets of beautiful old town or along the scenic drive leading up to the historic fortress Citadel of Cascais. Make your way up Ruo do Poca Nova and the adjacent streets to find your choice of restaurants, bars and outdoor spaces vying for your attention.

I spent two nights here enjoying all the city had to offer which, of course, includes amazing seafood.

Take a quick drive outside of the city to visit the town of Sintra which has also been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. While it is bit of backtracking for your journey, the city along with the Pena Palace have become must see destinations while visiting the area. You can drive to Sintra, but no cars are allowed in the city center. Which means you will need to find a car park and do the rest of your time there on foot. Which isn’t a bad option. You’ll want full control of your camera to grab images of the romantic architecture and lush landscapes that the city has to offer

Cascais to Lisbon

You are going to need every bit of calm that you can muster up to make the drive over to Lisbon. It’s only about 15 miles from Cascais to Lisbon. The closer you get to the city, the more tense you are likely to become driving. It’s not the roads, it’s the drivers. Okay and maybe the streets once you arrive in Lisbon. I would recommend finding the nicest spot you can afford along Avenida Liberdade, hand the keys to the valet and don’t touch them again until you are ready to depart. If you’ve planned well for your journey, Sixt rental car has an outpost at the Tivoli Avenida Liberdade. Leverage this advantageous location and return the car there if this is your last stop in the country.

The only thing scarier than driving the unbound hills of the Duoro Valley is driving the streets of Lisbon. This hilly city is filled with tight turns, cobbled one way streets that include street cars and hills that feel like mountains when you are driving a stick shift vehicle. It is not for the faint of heart.

By now you should be tired of driving. I know I was. So kick back, hop a tuktuk and enjoy the city the way nature intended.

Wrap Up

I did the drive over the course of 6 days with all the stops mentioned along the way. Tolls were about $30 USD and I only filled the car up twice the entire time I had it (including returning it full to the rental agency). What an amazing adventure and I only saw a fraction of the country. If you have more time, keep heading south. I hear the Algarve is magical and you can drive through Evora to experience more Portugese wine on your way.