Since COVID scared the heck out of us, getting on a cruise ship dropped far down my list of vacation options. But as humans, we have very short memories when it comes to certain types of trauma. We all quickly return to “normal” as if people weren’t stuck on cruise ships for months at a time only a few short years ago. So when the opportunity presented itself to travel on a cruise through Alaska, it took a bit of convincing. But soon I would be selecting a cabin and buying package upgrades to experience one of the truly untouched natural landscapes America has to offer.
I must admit, I would go from feeling excited to incredibly anxious for weeks leading up to the cruise. In my opinion, cruise ships have been a tricky travel option long before COVID put the industry at a standstill. We have all heard stories of how a number of passengers ended up with some contagious stomach virus during their holiday. Not fun. That said, once you understand the current safety measures and best practices that are now in place, you can get on to enjoying your Alaskan cruise while minimizing health risks.
I won’t bore you with the details of what you should look for ahead of booking and how to stay safe. There are a number of resources out there to guide you through this part. Assuming you’ve done your due diligence, let’s get on to the fun stuff.
Inside or Outside Passage
Making the decision between an inside or outside passage cruise is fairly simple. Most are inside passage primarily because the ship is protected from sea swells and will be closer to the mainland throughout the journey. If you are prone to motion sickness, inside passage will be your best bet. That’s not to say you won’t get sick. We traveled on an inside passage cruise and still experienced a full 24 hours where our ship was dealing with rough seas making it almost impossible to move around without holding on.
Inside passage is an incredibly scenic route. But I would wager a bet that most of the state is pretty scenic. No matter which journey you take, you are to see nature at its best. A few stops are likely to be on your itinerary if you do an inside passage cruise are Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway.
Ketchikan
Ketchikan has been called the “Salmon Capital of the World.” Official or not, there is a large welcome sign near the port that indicates this designation.
While you are in the area, make your way over to Creek Street. This historic boardwalk that was once the heart of Ketchikan’s red-light district. Today, it’s filled with shops and galleries. If you’re lucky, you may spot eagles nesting up above certainly waiting on the opportunity to grab a salmon from the creek. Additionally you will many nods to Ketchikan’s vibrant Native American culture as you stroll around this small town.
If you’re up for an excursion, a great place to go is Misty Fjords National Monument. The best way to see this area is on a scenic flightseeing tour. I was mesmerized by the crystal clear lakes and beautiful wilderness that was on full display from above. When you’re back near the port (and if you still have time), visit Saxman Totem Park. Here you will find one of the largest collections of totem poles around.
Juneau
Juneau is Alaska’s capital city but still feels like a very small town. Here you will find some really cool shops right at the port. More importantly, this is where you’ll want to do your whale watching excursion. During the summer, humpback whales migrate to these waters to feed. Of course that means, there are a number of whale watching outfits with all size tours leaving from the port and surrounding areas. Read reviews and pick the right one and if you are lucky, you can be a part of “whale soup”. That’s what they call it when you have whales on every side of the vessel.
If whales aren’t your thing or you already saw as many as you needed to see, then take a trip 12 miles outside of downtown to Mendenhall Glacier. Here you can walk right up to the glacier to get a much closer view. This is a view that you can’t get from any ship. And you don’t need a guide to experience it. Hikers looking for more adventure, make the trek along the popular Nugget Falls trail. But beware, there could be bears in the area but the fish are plentiful. Whatever you do, buffer in enough time to get back to the ship before it sets sail to the next destination. Otherwise, this might be the end of your cruise through Alaska.
Skagway
Skagway is the gateway to Yukon Territory where ambitious miners went their minds set on striking it rich. The town is really small with a few restaurants and a couple of museums dedicated to the gold rush history of the town. You can walk the entire town and back in under 1 hour. But if you’re feeling adventurous, jump on the White Pass and Yukon train to get a glimpse into some of the natural beauty of this area.
It’s a popular route for hikers and historians looking to explore nature up close. You can even try your luck at panning for gold.
Glacier Bay National Park
While Glacier Bay National Park is not a place where you can disembark and walk around, it is one of the most scenic days you’ll experience on your Alaskan cruise. The park is home to some of the most impressive tidewater glaciers in North America and many cruise itineraries include a full day dedicated to exploring the bay. In most cases, a ranger from the park will board the ship and provide a guide to what you are seeing as you cruise through Alaska’s Glacier Bay. It’s an excursion without the excursion. You simply need to bundle up and find a nice spot on deck to see some of nature’s best work.
If you have a a cabin with a balcony, this is when you will enjoy it the most. Bundle up and order a hot beverage to witness the raw beauty of the Alaskan wilderness. Listen for what sounds like thunder cracking in the distance and the crash of ice into the bay. This phenomenon is called calving. We were able to witness the calving of a glacier firsthand from our room without jockeying for a position in the common areas of the ship.
In addition to these well known stops, each cruise line offers specialty stops in places like Icy Straits. It’s kind of a destination that feels like it was created specifically for the cruise lines. All excursions can only be booked through the cruise line. Additionally, there’s not much more to do in port if you’re not on an excursion.
Booking Excursions
Let’s get right down to it and answer the top question that was on my mind leading up to my Alaskan cruise. Should I book an excursion through the cruise line or not? if you are lucky, your cruise expedition will incorporate a few excursions as a part of the package deal. But let’s face it, most of us aren’t that fortunate or lucky. This means that we will have to decide between paying an additional $300 per person to go see whales or hoping that one will pop up near the ship for you to catch a sighting for free.
The Advantages of booking with the cruise line
The truth is, cruise line organized excursions are expensive but they come with a few guarantees. The most important one being, the ship won’t pull off from the dock without you. Another great guarantee is the cruise lines vets the providers so you don’t have to. This means that you will be working with a quality provider that follows maritime laws while putting the safety of the customers and nature first. But there are a few other important factors that may influence your decision to book through the cruise line.
There are a lot of people on the cruise and most of them are going on the same excursions. That means, it is likely that any excursion booked through the cruise line will have a lot of people. While sizes are managed (because they can sell out), they work with providers that can accommodate larger groups. Additionally because they are trying to cover the most, you may be on the longest tour of your life. They seem to leave very early and come back pretty close to departure. Which does not leave much time to explore the town if that was on your mind.
The Advantages of booking outside of the cruise line
With all of the excursion booking sites out there like Viator, you might decide to take your chances, save a few dollars and go it alone. It’s easier than ever to do research and do reviews of providers ahead of your arrival into the town. You have more control over what is included and can opt for private excursions albeit those are pretty expensive. When booking yourself, you have to pay really close attention to the times of the excursion. If you mistime your arrival into port, you could miss the trip and oftentimes they are non refundable. Even if they offer to accommodate you at different time, it is unlikely that you will still have enough time in port to take advantage of it. Equally for the return, are sure you have a pretty good buffer before your ship “all aboard” time. You never want to be the person arriving at the dock as the ship pulls away.
I’ve had great luck with outside excursions but admittedly I only use this option when there is extended time in port.
Enhancing Your Experience
It’s unlikely that you will go on an excursion at every stop. With that in mind, you should plan to spend some time in the quaint towns and outside of gift shops to experience a bit of Alaskan hospitality. Most areas around the port will have a fair amount of stores, restaurants and even museums for you to explore. Patronize the small business owners near the ports. It powers the local economy and they will be very grateful.
While cruise lines provide a lot of food, you should not miss out on the fresh seafood that you will find in the ports that you visit during your cruise through Alaska. There is no place better to indulge in Alaskan King Crab than in Alaska. At Tracey’s King Crab Shack in Juneau, you can get a bucket of “the best legs in town” according to their slogan. I will admit, the crab legs were delicious. And while you’re in Juneau, head over to the Red Dog Saloon. It’s a little further into downtown but is a pretty cool bar with a live band.
My Perspective
I’ve cruised my way through Alaska twice. Each adventure revealed something new and gave me a different view of the natural wonders of this state. It’s no secret that the glaciers are melting at an alarming rate. With each calving, the landscape is reshaped. Preservation is top of mind in the state and tourist play an important role in making sure we do our part with each visit. While you are cruising, sit out on the deck or your balcony and watch how the landscape surprises you at each turn. If you look hard, you may see a bear on the prowl or catch a whale breaching. Even if you don’t, you are certain to have an unforgettable adventure as you cruise through the stunning waters of Alaska.
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