Everything you have read about Machu Picchu is probably true. The altitude sickness. The treacherous bus ride to the base. The alpaca wandering around. All true. But if a trip to the sacred land of Machu Picchu still sits on top of your bucket list, let me tell you why this is a journey that you must take. Getting from Lima to Machu Picchu takes careful planning. This blog will provide you with the best itinerary to make the trek safely.
A Little History
Machu Picchu, often referred to as the “Lost City of the Incas,” is believed to have been built by the Inca emperor Pachacuti in the mid-15th century, around the year 1450. According to historical accounts, the emperor conceived the idea of Machu Picchu as a mountain retreat, a testament to his wealth and power. During the second half of the sixteenth century, it was abandoned and forgotten by all except local inhabitants. In 1911, an American explorer brought international attention to the site after being taken there by local guides. His fascination with the site sparked a new found interest. Although it is often referred to as the Lost City, it was never lost.
Getting There
They say sometimes the hardest part is getting there. This is very true for Machu Picchu (depending on what you consider hard). A journey to this empire above the clouds will involve planes, trains and a hike. If you are coming from outside of the country, you will likely start your journey in Lima. But don’t just go directly from Lima to Machu Picchu. In fact, I would recommend a few days in Lima because it’s an amazing city with really good food. You should plan a few stops along the way to Machu Picchu to help you start to acclimate to the altitudes you will experience throughout your trip. Let me provide you with some perspective on the altitude.
Altitude Sickness is Real
If you are not accustomed to being at high altitudes for lengthy periods, then you are going to want to work your way up to the altitudes of Machu Picchu. Minor altitude sickness symptoms include headache, shortness of breath, and loss of appetite. So pay attention to how you are feeling as you navigate the different cities. While many start their adventures to Machu Picchu in Cusco, Cusco is actually at a higher elevation (Cusco elevation: 11,155 ft vs Machu Picchu elevation: 7,970 ft). With this in mind, you should plan your trip to continue upwards in elevation as you go so your body has time to adjust.
Where to start
As you start to plan out your stay in Peru, consider elevation to guide your journey. This will ensure you don’t spend days battling altitude sickness instead of exploring the sites that you’ve come this far to see. Ultimately, it will take a few days to complete the full journey from Lima to Machu Picchu but it will be well worth it.
Lima elevation: 0 – 500 ft)
Since you will likely land in Lima first, spend a few days here. It will do nothing to help you acclimatize but it’s a cool city that you should definitely explore. Try the amazing ceviches here. You will not regret it.
Nazca elevation: 1,710 ft
It’s here that you see the mysterious Nazca Lines. Explorers discovered the site in 1927. Still today, scientist have little understanding of how and why they were created.
Arequipa elevation: 7,660 ft
Most people stop here on their way to visit the second deepest canyon in the world; Cocla Canyon. Yet, the architecture and the food in this charming city are not to be missed. Spend a day or two exploring the white buildings and discovering the food of the region.
Here you’ll have to make some decisions. Arequipa is closer to Puno (where you can visit Lake Titicaca) but the journey to Machu Picchu will start in Cusco which is pretty high in elevation and will definitely take your breathe away. You can take the flight to Cusco and spend a couple of nights there before taking the early train to Machu Picchu. Afterwhich, you can go back to Lake Titicaca and take a direct flight from there back to Lima.
Cusco elevation: 11,155 ft
The city is the capital of the province and region of Cusco, and a jumping off point for travelers heading to and from Machu Picchu. There is quite a bit to explore here but take my advice and sit the first day out. Consequently, I did not and had the worst headache I have ever experienced the rest of the day.
Machu Picchu elevation: 7,970 ft
This is what most people head to Peru to see. I’ll leave the details for later in this post.
Lake Titicaca elevation: 12,500 ft
This is the world’s highest navigable lake. Travelers typically start their exploration from Puno on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca although you can also get there from Bolivia. Here you can do island hopping at its finest. Residents graciously welcome travelers into their homes. Curious visitors genuinely want an explanation of how torta reeds keep homes afloat.
Exploring Machu Picchu
There are a few things you need to know if you want to explore the ancient ruins. First, tickets are not sold onsite. Hence, you must purchase them in advance from the Ministry de Culture and same day tickets are not available. Additionally if you want to take the one hour additional journey to reach the summit of Huayna Picchu, understand there are only 400 tickets sold per day. If you arrive and have not booked in advance, your final opportunity is at the National Cultural Institute (INC) office on the main plaza in Aguas Calientes.
Second, unless you are planning to take the 4-day hike, you will need to book tickets on the train (which sell out quickly). PeruRail offers different train services – from budget Vistadome, upgrade Expedition, and luxury Hiram Bingham. While there are several daily departures, you will want to be on one of the earliest. That means pre dawn. The train ride is about 4 hours from Cusco to Aguas Calientes a small town at the base of the mountain.
Finally, you will need to hop a shuttle bus to get to the main entrance. You could also walk uphill but that’s just torturing yourself.
You’ve likely seen videos of the treacherous 20 minute bus ride up Machu Picchu. It’s all true. Buses use a zigzagging switchback road to go up and down the steep mountainside. In addition, the roads are very narrow and it feels as if you will tumble off the side of the cliff at every turn. Buses narrowly miss each other as they cross paths with loads of anxious tourist. It is a death defying ride all the way up so be warned.
You’ve finally arrived. Now what?
With your heart, passport and tickets in hand you are ready to explore. There are a number of ambitious guides waiting near the meeting point entrance gate to take you on your journey. That said, if you’d prefer more freedom you can also just grab a map go it alone. Maps typically will show the different walking circuits. Since you have a set number of hours in Machu Picchu be thoughtful in your approach so you can make the most of your time. Really important: there are no bathrooms within the archaeological site, so make use of the ones outside the main entrance before you head in.
If your body has not fully acclimated to the altitude, you will struggle. Drink lots of water and take your time. Once you make it to the main gate, stop and gaze upon the mysterious Inca ruins. Watch our for llama as they roam freely around the site. Make your way to the Temple of the Condor, check out the Temple of the Sun and look for the Stairway of the Fountains. You will find a new appreciation for the ingenuity of the Inca people as you explore.
After the Ruins
Once you’ve exhausted your time and energy at the ruins, find the next departing bus to bring you back down to Aguas Calientes. You can also opt to walk down. The path is clearly marked and it takes about 1 hour. There are plenty of worthy accommodations in the area if you would prefer to spend the night here. Explore the quaint shops, grab a cocktail or step into one of the many restaurants in the area to tackle your hunger.
If you are heading back to Cusco, make your way through the market and back to the train station ahead of your departure. Take in the sites on the four hour train ride back. Look up for campsites perched precariously on the mountainside and locals doing chores along the water. By the time you reach your accommodations, exhaustion will surely set in.
My View
Machu Picchu is one of those places that you just have to see. Pictures don’t do it justice. While it might seem like a major journey to get there, the new perspective you will gain is totally worth it. Above all, focus on the simple enjoyment of this amazing country. Have a Pisco Sour and enjoy the journey that takes you from Lima to the sacred land of Machu Picchu. You will love it.
Discover more from TwoBlackTravelers
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.